Building an IOM Model Yacht
  Using Foam
Making foam plug
  Glassing Hull  
  Finishing hull  
Making a Wooden Boat
  Making wooden plug / hull  
  Making a wooden deck  
  Finishing hull  

Producing the Deck and Glassing the shell / deck

Having built my boats, I then discovered by chatting to Dave Creed a better way to join the deck to the hull. Other members of the club (Roger & Garvin) have since used this technique to make their boats, so some of the photos below are of their boats or some of Dave Creeds as well as my own, and are 3 different designs, but the principle is the same. The technique basically involves wraping the glass fibre round the hull and over onto the deck. One then has to spring off the glass, which is only possibly as the lay up is comparatively light and flexible.

Mark the sheer line on the plug - it should already be visible at each station. Line is not yet completed, but is the blue dashes

Saw this off using a woodworking saw, a bit above the sheer line - now marked in red
Sand down to the sheer line


Add foam to the foredeck in the same way as the hull was made, shape and fair. When satisfied, you can either, as it this boat glass the whole boat using epoxy resin (polyester resin melts the foam) and glass to make the plug solid, then sand and smooth till a really good finish is achieved.

or alternatively paint with emulsion, filling with fine plaster and sand, repeat if necessary.

Any wells, holes for pots etc need to be done at this stage, here built into the foam of the plug

  A quick alternative to glassing or painting is to cover with strips of parcel tape, which is an excellent releasing agent as well  
  You could create a separate stern deck & well, as shown above  

or just a well (this one made of balsa, plaster and paint).

however you have finished the plug, it is a good idea to wax if not using parcel tape, and perhaps use PVA releasing fluid (not the glue, its a blue alcohol product).


Wrap Notes by David Creed. It assumes you are using 2 layers of 200 gram twill glass and epoxy resin, and your plug is ready to go:

Always cut full rectangles of material, never shape them before laying down.If using the weave 45/45 after cutting a generous rectangle at least 105cm by the width (including wraping right round to the foredeck) plus 4cm. Tape the edges with masking tape to avoid distortion. Peel ply should always be used with the weave square in the normal way, not 45/45 because you need to tension it as it is laid over the laminate.
If using fast hardner mix enough resin for the first layer only,about 110% of the weight of the piece of glass is about right.
Start with a heavy coat of resin over the plug, as thick as poss without too many runs. The idea is to have enough resin on the plug to soak through the cloth by capillary action driving the air out of the fibres. Don't rush at this time, smooth the cloth down into contact with the plug using the brush initially.
When the resin has soaked to the top of the cloth card (old credit card) over the laminate to lay it down properly and draw excess resin to the surface.
When the surface of the cloth is level add more resin if required so that the surface is noticeably wet and lay the second layer on following the same procedure.When this has wetted out and has been lightly carded lay the peel ply down, again smoothing on with the brush.Pull the ply out as taught as possible by the corners then start pressing the ply down onto the laminate with gloved fingers working from the middle in a herringbone pattern forcing the ply to stretch along and around the hull.This action will force any excess resin through to the top surface of the ply. If any areas look dry add more resin on top of the ply and it will be forced through by the fingering. No creases should be evident after this process.
If wrapping around the deck edge do this after the hull area is fully sorted,turn the boat the right way up with the hull resting on foam blocks and work the wet laminate round the corners. When done I would staple the peel ply to the deck surface to ensure it stays tight whilst the laminate cures, if not possible then tie or tape the edges together across the deck.
When cured rip the ply off but don't try to release the plug. Put a heavy coat of two pack paint down right away (I recommend an high build epoxy) before any contamination gets onto the laminate. It will look awful at this stage, rough and untidy. Allow the paint to cure totally then rub down with 120 or 180 wet or dry until the surface is smooth.Rub off as much paint as required to make smooth but stop when a speckled pattern of glass and paint appears,this indicates you are sanding the resin left by the peel ply pattern and if you go any further you will cut into the fibres,not what we want!
Now release the hull from the plug and build the boat without any further finishing work until it is complete. Very little filling should be required before the final coat, Epoxy + light weight fillers or P38 or similar is fine for the detail filling.

  This shows a plug with a "fence" down the centre line to allow a complete wrap around and ultimately the deck could be just joined in the centre.   Glass has been wrapped around here, there being no need to laminate a separate foredeck here.  
  Different boat, but the glass and peel play have been wrapped around and clamped in the centre.   In this boat the deck part of this was trimmed back towards the gunwales as shown opposite  
  Here a separate foredeck and stern deck including the well have been laminated   The 3 parts placed together to check all OK