SW 26
Gallery of Seawolf 26 Pictures
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Manrique has a single wire coming from the back of the mast, then doubles 2 metres from the transom, with bottlescrews on each wire. The tightening device compresses the wires together, a bit like a Spanish Windlass.

Woolfee also uses the same technique, and the tightening device can be seen in more detail. What I like about this system is that even if the tightening device fails, the backstay is still holding the mast up. The down side is that it is easy to get the initial tightening, but as you get further down, it becomes much harder to make small increases in tension.

Rosa now has an adjustable backstay, using a single wire down to where it doubles, then dynema to make a "cascade" giving a 16:1 purchase. I was going to do similar to Woolfee and Manrique, but given that the doubling wire had a busting strand, it was easier to replace with dynema. The cascade gives very easy adjustment, and is easy to make given it is rope. 16: 1 is the most you can do with a cascade, as if you double again, you run out of space (unless you take the doublng point higher up the rig)..
 

Sooper Trooper uses something similar to Rosa, only has dynema throughout. It also has a 2:1 at the junction, then I think a 6:1 purchase set of blocks, one with a cleat, giving 12:1.

So why adjust a backstay at all. Well, it helps to point if applied hard upwind, as it increases tension on the forestay, stopping the genoa falling away sideways, which kills pointing, though increasing speed. It also helps bend the mast, making the top of the mainsail leech open out, loosing power (i.e. most use when in wind). Off the wind it can be eased to help get the mast as upright as possible, which gives best speed. If cruising, why bother about speed / pointing. Well, just by pointing 10 degrees lower when averaging about 5 knots upwind, you will probably only travel 2½ miles instead of 3½ miles. Not an issue to those who turn on the motor under these circumstances!

A note of caution on freeing the backstay. Rosa has a Furlex roller reefing, and the forestay is inside the furling foil. If the forestay becomes too slack, it can catch on the foil, twisting the wire, which should then be replaced. An expensive mistake - I now only furl with the backstay tensioned. Hopefully a mistake I'll only make the once!

All the boats have U bolts to take the load into the deck above the transom, not ideal, though it seems to have lasted for many years in each case. Sooper Trooper has chain plates from the transom, not the deck. I intend to do something like that over the winter, though I'm guessing with swept back spreaders the backstay will never have to take the full forces on the mast